In the Kelabit Highlands, the tropics give way to a cool, misty alpine dream. This is a land of emerald rice paddies and salt springs. In Ba'kelalan, the Lun Bawang people harvest "black gold", a mineral-rich mountain salt produced at the Buduk Bui salt factory. Here, the soundtrack to your life is the haunting music of bamboo wind instruments, and the flavour is the sweetness of wild vanilla and mountain apples. It is a place of quiet dignity, where the sunrise over Mount Murud is the only clock you’ll ever need.